Arduino Bot Code

//  Nathan Loewen
//  NeedForSpeed Bot
//  4/25/15
//  
//  This code will probably not directly work for everyone's computer.  I'm using Windows 7 with a 
//  1366/768 screen resolution (17" monitor).  All the delays , Mouse.move(0,0,0) and multiple lines
//  of mouse movement were due to eratic mouse movement.  That's what I found that worked.  If I do 
//  another bot I will definitely put more effort into getting Mouse.moveAbs to work.  Good luck.
//  Sorry for the somewhat messy code.  It is a rough format to go off of though.
    
  
  int button = 0;  //variable for button position
  int previous = 0;  //so it runs once for each button press
  int n = 0;  //incrementing variable
  int first = 0;  //variable to control the trim value

void setup() 
{
  Mouse.begin();  //begin, necessary
  pinMode(10,INPUT);  //I connected my switch between vcc and pin 10.  I had a pulldown resistor from pin 10 to ground
}

void loop() 
{
  previous = button; //this is all to know if the button was pressed last check
  button = digitalRead(10);
  if(previous == 0 && button == 1) //if it was not pressed last, and is pressed now, the button was just pushed.
  {
    n++;  //switches through the menu
    switch(n) //each command under switch is a mouse movement and button press.
    {
      case 1: //move to car dealer and click
      Mouse.move(-50,0,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(1000);
      Mouse.move(0,-80,0);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      if(first == 1){  // only trim after the first run
      Mouse.move(24,0,0);}  //trim value
      first = 1;
      delay(1500);
      button = 0;  //remove all the button = 0; commands for testing if you don't want it to proceed without another button click.
      break;
      
      case 2:  //move and click purchase cars
      Mouse.move(0,-30,0);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(2500);
      button = 0;
      break;
      
      case 3:  //move and click menu
      Mouse.move(0,-30,0);
      delay(100);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(1000);
      button = 0;
      break;
      
      case 4:  //move and click gifts
      Mouse.move(0,35,0);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(500);
      button = 0;
      break;
      
      case 5:  //move and click buy
      Mouse.move(20,75,0);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(1000);
      button = 0;
      break;
      
      case 6:  //move and click yes, delay, then click okay
      Mouse.move(130,0,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(100);
      Mouse.move(0,-50,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(100);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      delay(5000);  //the internet is slowest here.
      Mouse.move(1,0,0);  //the okay button will not highlight unless you move it back and forth a little.
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(100);
      Mouse.move(-1,0,0);
      Mouse.press();
      Mouse.release();
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(2000);
      button = 0;
      break;
      
      case 7:  // move to origin
      for(n=0;n<10;n++){
      Mouse.move(20,0,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);}
      delay(100);
      Mouse.move(17,0,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      delay(500);
      for(n=0;n<6;n++){
      Mouse.move(0,20,0);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);}
      delay(1000);
      Mouse.move(0,0,0);
      n = 0;  //this makes it restart to the first case after it's done all 7.
      button = 0;
      break; 
    } 
  }
  delay(10);
}

1979-83 Peugeot U08

Not really sure the year of this thing... based on the decals its somewhere between '79 and '83.  I found it abandoned and decided to take the challenge.  I should have taken a picture of when I first found it.  Interestingly, I didn't need to patch the tubes.  They have been holding pressure nicely but the bike will definitely need new tires.  I'm debating Cheng Shins or Zaffiros.  If you have experience with Cheng Shin let me know.

My plan is to keep the bike pretty original.  I plan on getting blackwalls, I took the wheel reflector off (so much better balance)  I might remove the lever extensions to the brakes. Obviously, the cables/housing will be replaced with new stuff.

11/23/13

Work so far:
rebuilt both hubs, bottom bracket (left crank arm threads were stripped so that took a while =P )
replaced rear derailleur cable
cleaned (a LOT)
disassembled the crankset, cleaned, and reassembled
rebuilt rear derailleur,  cleaned both (unfortunately rivets are not removable... =/  )
complete pedal spindle rebuild (I love it when they are rebuildable)

 That geometry was ahead of it's time...great structure.

 Checkered tube markings...still can't find the year =P  Oh France...

 Such beautiful cranks!  The aluminum cleans up nice.  Very fluid with the rebuilt bb.

 Simplex > Schwinn

 Nice and clean.  it spins very nicely.  Can't wait to get the front derailleur and brakes set up... I'm afraid to go too fast without brakes.

 Cat Eye reflectors!  I had no idea they have been around that long

 Carbon-steel frame

 Cool markings

 Cool emblem

 ...more cool markings

Sweet high-flange hub with them clean-looking rounded axle nuts

10/4/13

I just replaced all the cables and rebuilt the rear brake and ordered basic Cheng Shin tires for the time being.
After cleaning the center pull hanger for the rear brake it is easier to tighten the seatpost without moving the hanger, but the excessively smooth chrome seatpost still has trouble not moving unless you really tighten it hard.
The back wheel needs a small truing and the front brake pads could use a little cleaning still.

 Nice clean brake.  I found it easiest to take the whole thing off instead of trying to take them off and put them back on while the mounts are still attached to the bike.  I used Emory cloth to clean out all the pivot points.  I wish the black inserts were slightly thinner so they would apply less friction to the system.  Oh well...

 Kinda fun.  Very nice action!

I thought it was interesting where the cable enters the front derailleur.

 Replacement cable end from another old bike.  The original plastic ones crumble by touch.

This is the pivoting hanger I mentioned earlier.  One of the main reasons it was having trouble before was that the nut was flipped backwards.  The cone part should face outward.  I'm not a huge fan of the quick adjust placement...its quite cumbersome.

Keep posted for more updates!

1982 Schwinn Continental Fixie

This is the start of a blog I will try to keep to organize my projects and give info regarding what you should and shouldn't do (I learn the hard way, you learn the easy way...what could possibly go wrong).  Comment if you have any questions!

Last year I bought an old Continental for $6 that needed quite a bit.  After reading online I decided to try making it a fixie at the lowest cost possible.  I started by taking everything unnecessary off and then attempting to weld the internals of the freewheel (not worth the effort, just get a track cog).   I bought a track cog and bottom bracket lockring (don't get a fixie lockring unless you have a fixie hub they thread on the opposite way and have a smaller diameter).

This is with the original freewheel.  The bike came with a very nice Bontrager hard case tire on the front.  The rear tire (seemed original) later developed a cyst when I put in the recommended pressure for a triathlon.
The parts I have bought for it are as follows:
17t track cog - $9 (amazon)
Generic SS chain - $5 (slightly used from bike shop)
Pedal Straps - $3  (thrift store)
Vittoria Zaffiro 27x1 1/4 tire - $25  (amazon)
Selle Italia (Cervelo branded) TT seat - $10  (take off seat...all the wear in the pictures was from me though)
Front axle - $4 (from City Bikes in Portland)
"Schwinn approved" rack - Interesting story here...I got this off of another bike I bought to make a little money on.  It came on a Specialized hardrock but after a little research I figured out that this is the exact rack that would have come on the Continental this year.  =D  Kinda cool...

The work I have done is as follows:
rebuilt both hubs, bottom bracket, headset
recentered rear wheel
dished rear wheel  (in the future I may post a how-to for this)
trued both wheels

The following pictures show how the bike is now.

 The electrical tape is to protect the frame where the paint is chipped...rust is never friendly.

 Origional crankset.  I honestly hate 1 piece cranks but I was going cheap.  44t

 Clean look of no tape on chrome drop bars... love it.  cold in the winter though.  The front brake is just a security precaution.  I virtually never use it.

 Gorgeous high-flange hub

bontrager hard-case tire

 Vittoria Zaffiro tire

 I found out you need a rear reflector and headlight to ride legally at night...he was a very nice officer.

Take off seat (modified rail mounts) seat post clamp off a Walmart parts bike (very handy and not any heavier than the original steel bolt)

Here's a pic of the cog/lockring and axle.  I used axle nuts and washers as spacers but finding the right width and spacing was quite tough.  I recommend just buying spacers if you don't have a ready supply of parts.  Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-2mm-Axle-Spacers/dp/B001GSKHM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385232435&sr=8-1&keywords=axle+spacers

Make sure you get the skinniest cog width you can.  It makes life easier and you don't need an extra-wide chain.  For best (and safest) results use red threadlocker to hold the cog and lockring on (since they both unscrew the same way)  I don't have it, but it's a good idea nonetheless.

Feel free to comment with any questions!